Across the Blue Mountains

 

    MEMOIRS OF WILLIAM COX, J.P.
Lieutenant and Paymaster of N.S.W. Corps or 102nd Regiment

Extract from the Journal kept by Mr. W. Cox in making a road across the Blue Mountains
from Emu Plains to a new country discovered by Mr. Evans to the westward.

THE MOUNTAIN ROAD: November 1814

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November 1.

Fair weather. Three persons sent to examine the mountain to the left, to find a place to make a road down to the forest ground. Returned unsuccessful.

November 2.

Fine morning. Thunder, with light showers. Sent three men again to examine the descent of the mountain, and ascertained that there is no other way but from the bluff originally marked. To-morrow I intend going to survey it, as a road must be made to get off the mountain.

November 3.

At 6 this morning went forward with Lewis, Tye, and a soldier to examine the mountain at the end of the ridge--four miles. Found it much worse than I expected. It commences with going down steep between immense large boulders, when it opens with a very steep gulley in front, and towards the left it falls off so steep that it is with much difficulty a person can get down at all. The whole front of the mountain is covered with loose rock, at least two-thirds of the way down; and on the right and left it is bounded both by steep gullies and rocks, so that we cannot, by winding short to the left, get half length sufficient to gain ground to get down without a number of circular turns both to right and left, and in that case the hill is so very steep about half-a-mile down that it is not possible to make a good road to go down and up again without going to a very great expense. I have, therefore, made up my mind to make such a road as a cart can go down empty or with a very light load without a possibility of its being able to return with any sort of load whatever; and such a road will also answer to drive stock down to the forest ground. After getting down this said mountain, we got into very pretty forest ground, and went as far as Blaxland's rivulet, about two miles. The grass on it is generally of a good quality--some silky; some hard, intermingled with rib grass, buttercup and thistle.

Timber thin, and kangaroos--plenty. In returning back, we had to clamber up the mountain, and it completely knocked me up. It is a very great drawback to the new country, as no produce can be brought from thence to headquarters, except fat bullocks or sheep. The sheep also will be able to bring their fleeces up, and be shorn on the mountains, or driven to the second depÙt for the purpose. In either case, waggons can fetch the wool.

Gorman came forward with a cartload of provisions. From him I learnt that Walters had got some fresh Government bullocks at the first depÙt, but that he could not harness them--they were so wild. Sent another man down to assist him. Also sent a man to bring up the remainder of the bullocks that are unable to work from lameness or poverty, to get them down the mountain, where there is good feed. The Government bullocks have not carried a single load of anything for me since Sunday week last.

Made an agreement with Sergeant Minehan and another man for their horse and cart to remain with us until we have performed the whole of our work, and the sergeant went to the Hawkesbury for them. T. Tindall received a hurt in his arm from the fall of a tree. Removed all hands this morning to 45 miles. Put up the forge for the blacksmith to repair all tools for the Herculean mountain. Issued to all hands a gill of spirits.

November 4.

Sent three men to examine all the ridges and gullies to the north, offering a reward if they found a better way down. All returned unsuccessiul. Removed to 47 miles.

November 5.

Wind to the east; rain and cold. All hands employed on the road.

The blacksmith made eight pikes for self-defence against the natives. Lewis and a party took the dogs down to tne forest ground. Killed a fine kangaroo; weighs about 120 lb. Examined the big mountain, and fixed on the spot where to begin on Monday, having given up all thoughts of attempting it elsewhere. J. Manning sprained his ankle in bringing up a keg of water from the rocks below. T. Raddick ill; believe it arises from the wet weather.

There is timber here, which appears to bear all the property of the ash in its young state. It is easily transplanted, as the sprouts are like the white thorn. It grows quickly, tall and straight, bends to anything. When large it splits well, and will, I have no doubt, make: very good hoops. In its appearance it is like the black butt, but the leaves are unlike. The bark ties much better than stringy bark. In falling the timber trees it cut remarkably free, and in order to try it I cut a small one down, and quartered it, which I mean to send to Clarendon and try them for light cart or chaise shafts.

November 6.

Rain in morning; began to clear up about noon. Received a letter from the Government, dated 2nd. Sent S. Davis to Sydney with a letter to the Governor at 2 p.m. to bring up powder and spirits.

November 7.

Mr. Hobby joined me this morning. At 6 a.m. went forward with 10 men to commence operations for a road down the mount. Light rain and heavy fogs.

November 8.

Employed the same hands in the same manner. Light rain as before. The men very wet and uncomfortable, their clothes and bedding being also wet.

November 9.

Removed to the extreme end of the mountain with the whole of the party. The rocks here are so lofty and undermined that the men will be able to sleep dry, and keep their little clothing dry also, which is what they have been unable to do this last fortnight. Left 12 men to finish up the road; the rest employed with myself. Cold rain set in about, noon. Wind S.W.

November 10.

Raining; cleared up at 9 o'clock. Got a good day's work done. Evening fine and starlight.

November 11.

Rain commenced before daylight, and continued the whole day. Wind S. and very cold. Sent T. Raddock to Windsor, being very ill. S. Freeman, the carpenter, laid up with a cold and swollen face. Jas. Dwyer ill; pain in side and breast. Sent two carts to the second depÙt for provisions.

Sent three men with the dogs to catch kangaroos three times this week. Brought one home every day. The bullock driver, with 11 bullocks joined me yesterday. All they have done this last fortnight has been to bring in one bag of biscuits from the first depÙt to this place (43 miles). Ordered the bullocks down the mountain to the forest ground, where I intend letting them remain to recover themselves until we remove forward towards the Fish River. One of them is quite blind. He got into the gully going down, but we got him out today safe.

November 12.

Very fine day. Wind east and cold. Completed the road to the beginning of the large mountain, which we have to descend to the forest ground. Measured it up; it is 28 miles 50 chains. Continued to clear away the timber and rubbish through the large rocks, and to the beginning of the bluff end of the mountain. Two men on the sick list.

November 13.

Went down to the forest ground; from thence on to the rivulet, and traced it to the river, about five miles down. Went one mile down the river and came back on the high lands, exploring the best ground for a road. The grass on the greater part of the land we went over to-day is good. The timber thin. The ground is hilly, but sound; some parts near the rivulet and river is rocky, but no iron stone, it being rather of a sandy soil, and very good pasture for sheep. The ground on the other side of the rivulet appears also to be equally good for feed, thinly timbered, and very hilly, with good grass clear up to the rocks. The river runs nearly east, and must, from its course, empty itself into the Nepean River.

The horse carts arrived to-day from the second depÙt. They brought very small loads indeed. Ordered two of the carts to go to-morrow to the first depÙt, and to return here again on Sunday next loaded. Saw the working bullocks this morning. They are improving quite fast. Mustered the whole of the tools, harness, &c.; found nearly all right. Ground the axes and put the grub hoes and picks in order to begin to-morrow. Ordered Gorman to issue 4 lbs. biscuit and 3 lbs. flour for each mess, instead of 6 lbs.

each, the biscuits running short, and being also too bulky to bring so far, being 90 miles from head-quarters.

November 14.

Sick list:

  • F. Dwyer, cold, pains in limbs;
  • S. Freeman, cold and swelled face;
  • S. Crook, cold, bad eyes;
  • V. Hanragan, cold, pains in limbs;
  • S. Walters, hurt by bullock.

The extreme wet weather we had for a fortnight before we arrived here has given most of the men colds, but as they are now dry lodged, and, in addition to their large ration, have fresh kangaroo at least three times a week, it is to be hoped they will soon recover. So many men sick, and chiefly very useful ones, breaks in on our working party much, and the continuous rain also prevents so much work being done as I could wish. Fine morning; at noon thunder, with rain and hail. Wind east; very cold. Steady rain all the evening. Got on erecting the bridge at the beginning of the descent off the mountain, and blowing up the rocks that are in the line of our intended road down to the forest. Find is [sic] difficult work, and it will cost us much labour.

November 15.

Five men sick. Sent Mr. Hobby, with Lewis and Tye, to trace a ridge that leads to the river a little below Blaxland's rivulet, it being my wish to cross the river in preference to crossing the rivulet twice.

The report was favourable, but the water being too high they could not cross. I intend going myself the first fine day I can leave the work.

Got on well with our work on the mountain. Fixed two large trees as side pieces--one 45, the other 50 ft. long. Fine weather; wind east, thunder, no rain.

Noveember 16.

Dwyer and Cook returned to labour. Sullivan laid up, sick. Most beautiful morning. Thunder at noon and in the evening, with showers.

Got a very good day's work done. The rocks cut extremely hard, and cost us much labour. Sent Lewis and Tye back to the 37 miles to see a working bullock left there three weeks since. Found it in so bad a state from sore feet and unable to walk that they killed it.

November 17.

Sick list: Freeman, Walters, Sullivan. Fine day.

Worked on the front of the mountain. The ground extremely hard, and very large rocks as we dig into it. Some we blow up, but the greater part we turn out with long levers and crowbars. Kept six men cutting and blowing up rocks, two splitting posts and rails, and it is as much as the 'smith can do to keep their tools in order.

November 18.

Hard at work on the rocks this day. Kept our six pickaxes at work; and W. Appledon (a sailor) fixed the blocks and tackle to trees, and got a most capital purchase to turn out an immense large rock at the side of the mountain in the way of our road, which he performed well. Two men received slight hurts in doing it by one of the purchases slipping (J. Tindall and T. Adams). This rock would have cost me at least 51b. of powder to have blown it up. Two carts arrived with provisions, and brought a supply of gunpowder and a keg of spirits.

November 19.

Sick list: S. Freeman, S. Walters, T. Davis, J. Finch, T. Adams,

J. Tindall. Fine morning. Work as on Friday. At 5 p.m. heavy thunder, with hail and rain, continued about two hours. Sent the sergeant with a two-horse cart to the second depÙt to bring away Gorman and the remainder of the stores. Discharged six men, with three carts and six horses, from the mountain work, namely, J. Crowley, J. Toone, M. Bryan,mS. Stanley, S. Whitney, P. Hoddrigoddy.

November 20 (Sunday).

At 7 a.m. went with Mr. Hobby, Lewis, and Tye to examine therivulet, river, and ground as far as Blaxland's Mountain, to find out the best passage across the water, as also to mark the road to it. After going on different ridges and examining the crossing-places, we got to the foot of the mountain at noon, where we remained an hour and refreshed. Immediately after leaving it we crossed a small swamp to look at another ridge, when my horse got stuck in a bog, and plunged until he fell. I received no hurt, but got wet through. Pulled off my clothes, wrung them, and left them in the sun an hour, when they were tolerably dry. Crossed the lower rivulet on our return just at the junction, in doing which Mr. Hobby's horse stumbled and threw him into the water, which from the last heavy rains was quite rapid. Came from thence back on the north side of the rivulet, and crossed three miles from thence up.

The ground on this side is better for feed than any we have seen. It is extremely hilly; the timber thin; the ground perfectly sound, intermixed in places with large loose rocks, and the sort of grass fit for cattle and sheep. It is also very well watered, as stock can go to almost any part of the rivulet to drink. The crossing-places over the river are so encumbered with rock, and the access to it from the hilly ground on each side so bad, that I did not fix on a crossing-place on it, but intend having both rivulets well examined the ensuing week. Came back at 6 p.m., completely knocked up from fatigue. Late in the evening violent gusts of wind, with three or four hours' rain.

November 21.

Thick, misty morning. A11 hands at work on the mountain. At 10 a.m. it began to thunder and rain. About noon it increased, and continued the whole day, at times very heavy. Only four hours work done this day. Issued to all hands yesterday afternoon a gill of spirits each.

November 22.

Thick, moist morning. The sick list reduced to one (S. Davis). All hands again on the mountain. Light rain and heavy fogs during the day, but the men continued out and did a good day's work. Turned out a great number of very large rocks this day; blew up one. The ground as we dig discovers many more rocks than we expected.

November 23.

Cloudy morning, with a very cold wind, east-south-east. Cleared up at noon, and continued fine the rest of the day. T. Cook and J. Ross sick. Sent two carts to Emu Plains, with three horses and the sergeant and two men, to bring a load of flour from Martin's. Sent Gorman with them, and he took six weeks' provisions for two of the soldiers that are to be left at the first depÙt. The other soldier ordered to return here with the carts.

Sent J. Tye, with a soldier and another man, to re-mark the trees from the second rivulet to the Fish River, a distance of about 20 miles from hence, and gave him directions to return by a ridge of high land that bears, as we suppose, from within three miles of the Fish River back to Mount Blaxland, it being my wish to make the road on that line, if practicable. They took each a week's rations with them.

November 24.

Sick: T. Cook, J. Ross, J. Finch (pains in his back and limbs from wet and cold).

Close morning, but dry weather until 5 p.m., when it mizzled, and continued so all the evening. Wind southeast, and cold. The men did a very good day's work. Turned out of the road an immense quantity of rock, which was handsomely veined, very like marble. The bullocks having been missing since Sunday last, sent Lewis to look after them. He returned, but could not find them. There is a handsome shrub here, very like the laylock. It grows larger, but is a pretty flower. The stems of them make good walking-sticks.

November 25.

Sick list as yesterday. Wet, drizzly morning. At 10 a.m. it rained so hard as to break ofF the men from work. Took up a little again at 2 p.m. Turned out the men again, and continued to work until sunset.

Light rain all the afternoon. Harder rain in the evening. Wind south-south-east. quite cold.

November 26.

Issued to all hands one pair of trousers each. The stone on the mountain is uncommon hard, and flinty. Cuts extremely bad, and some of it will not split. We have been fortunate in turning out very large solid rocks 2 ft. thick without breaking them, and we have used but little powder this week. Light rain the whole day. Wind east-south-east; blowing very hard at times, and quite cold. The men kept out at work the greater part of the day, but so much wet and for so long a time makes them quite cheerless.

The working bullocks not having been seen these 10 days, sent Lewis again after them, and found them up a valley three miles away, east-north-east. Ordered the bullock driver to repair the harness, and be prepared to set off with a strong team to-morrow for Emu Plains, to bring us a load of provisions.

Sick list as yesterday; Cook and Ross getting better. Finch much worse.

Carpenter got 100 posts split and 200 rails for fencing the road down the mountain.

November 27 (Sunday).

Heavy rain all night, and until 9 this morning, when it became lighter, but continued raining until 1 o'clock, when it began to clear up. Issued one pair of shoes to each man. German arrived at 8 this morning with an account that Allen's horse was knocked up and returned to Emu Plains, and that he did not expect. the other two horses would bring more than two small casks of flour. Sent the bullock cart, with two men and five bullocks, to Emu Plains for a load of provisions, and ordered Gorman to see it safely loaded at Martin's. In this cart I sent J. Finch, who was very ill, and anxious to return to the Nepean.

At 5 p.m. J. Tye and his party returned from the Fish River. They brought some fish with them, which proved to be rock cod, weighing about 5 lb. each. They report the waters to be very high, and that it has rained constantly from Wednesday evening until a few hours since, in consequence of which they could not examine the ridge which I suppose leads towards the river, but returned the same way they went, which is by no means favourable for a road, on account of hills and valleys. During their stay at the river they caught 10 fish, and state that had the water not run so strong they would have caught as many as they pleased.

Quite a fine, clear evening.

November 28.

A clear, beautiful morning. All hands out at work at 5 o'clock. At 5 p.m. turned cloudy, and we had a dirty evening, but got a good day's work done.

At noon the sergeant and Frost returned from Emu ford with their horses and one cart, bringing two casks of flour, of 336 lb. each. Allen's horse got stung by something, and was left behind.

T. Adams sick; has a strong fever on him.

The stonemason completed the rock a little below the bridge. It has cost us 10 blasts of powder and great labour to get rid of it.

November 29.

A dirty morning. Got a tree 55 ft. long and 9 ft. in circumference by the men in the woods into his place as a side piece below the bridge, and joining the rock, which is the last we want for this job. Men stuck very hard picking and grubbing the rocks and forming the road. Fine evening.

November 30.

A fine day; thunder at noon, but no rain. Men working as yesterday, and got a very good day's work done. The rock picks extremely hard.

Sick list: T. Adams, P. Hanley, S. Parker, T. Watkins.

continued


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